Move your feet to the Baltic beat

THE OBSERVER (UK) -

Before I set off to research A Hedonist's Guide to Tallinn, I had vague notions of the Estonian capital as the 'new Prague', with a reputation as a cult party spot. If I was expecting some kind of Baltic Babylon, however, I was soon to be surprised. The Tallinn I discovered was a style-conscious city full of medieval charm and modern manners, determined to defy the stag party stereotypes.
Estonia gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Since then it has exploded into life with an economic boom and a taste for European sophistication. My mission was to seek out the finest hotels, restaurants, cafes and clubs - to get the insider's view. Luckily for me, the Old Town - the centre of the tourist action - is less than a mile square, so getting round all the important spots was easy on foot. But it didn't take long to realise that there was more to Tallinn than the rather Disneyish centre, with its picture-postcard buildings and package tours. Much of the 'real' Tallinn exists outside the ancient walls - whether in leafy, Tsarist Kadriorg Park, the trendy, regenerated Portside area or the bustling modern district with its department stores and hotels.
Almost everything is post-Soviet-new, and it feels as if the Estonians have approached the business of nightlife as an exercise in reinvention: anything is possible. I came across restaurants and bars themed as Greek, Indian, Thai, French, Georgian, Italian - even English. And now the book's finished, I find myself returning to Estonia again and again, in my own time and without a notebook. There are just so many great places to revisit - and here are the ones that I'll head to first.

Bars

Kaheksa
(Vana-Posti 8 - door on Müürivahe; Tel: [00 372 from outside Estonia] 627 4770)
Still the uncontested meeting place for Tallinn's richer and more discerning patrons - a mix of media types, party animals and affluent professionals. Kaheksa is next to the famous Club Hollywood (owned by the same company) but is aimed at an older, more choosy market. The room is decorated on a tropical theme with plants and bamboos surrounding a lounge area full of comfy sofas - excellent for people-watching. For the real buzz, come on a Friday night when practically everyone in Tallinn seems to pass through Kaheksa at least once on their way to parties or clubs. The drinks menu is dominated by good cocktails and non-alcoholic fruit drinks. If you want to get into Hollywood, ask the bar staff and they will lead you through a side door to shortcut the queue.

Moskva
(Vabaduse väljak 10; Tel: 640 4694)
Moskva is a famous cafe, bar and restaurant set over two floors of a former Soviet establishment looking out over Vabaduse ('Freedom') Square. The bar occupies the second floor alongside the restaurant - where trendy young Estonians work on laptops while drinking cappuccino. If you bring your own computer, wireless internet access is free and fast. Later on the bar starts to fill out, with DJs from 8pm. On Fridays Moskva turns into a proper nightclub, with themed parties (R&B or retro, for example) which are usually packed. The design is minimalist: low lighting, tubular chandeliers and waitresses chosen for their looks in red air-hostess uniforms. After a while you may start to feel as if you are spending time on a private jet in the 1970s. The loos are unisex, with glittery seats.

CityGourmet
(Maakri 36; Tel: 649 8839)
In the modern city centre near the giant Radisson hotel, CityGourmet is a boutique deli-cafe that also functions as a wine merchant and bar, getting lively in the evenings with affluent Tallinners dropping by to enjoy the fine imported wines and snacks (foie gras, sandwiches, delicious olives and antipasti). With a stunning plate-glass window and a wonky, artistic slant to the room - as well as excellent music - this is a charismatic option far from the tourist hordes and the medieval theme pubs. The soothing atmosphere is perfect for lounging with a date or chatting with the locals.

Clubs

BonBon
(Mere pst. 6e; Tel: 661 6080)
Moroccan-themed members' nightclub which has opened its doors to the public while retaining its exclusive feel. The club is in the redeveloped port area between the Old Town and the Baltic in buildings that once housed industrial works - alongside a bowling alley, a restaurant and a tourist strip club. Here you will find a seasoned, affluent party crowd - together with models, local celebrities and well-dressed mafiosi. With a smallish dancefloor in the main room and two smaller bars across two floors, BonBon can get packed - and the atmosphere correspondingly lively. Popular with expats - but large groups of drunken tourists are likely to be turned away.

Hollywood
(Vana-Posti 8; Tel: 627 4770)
One of Tallinn's oldest and most famous nightclubs, Hollywood sits in the middle of the action at the edge of the old town in a blue-lit neo-classical building that also houses the Soprus cinema. Once you have navigated the long queue and the body searches you find yourself with a huge, good-natured party crowd. The nightclub inside reflects its grandiose, tacky exterior - a megaclub disco with two large dancefloors, an upstairs balcony and back rooms which include a VIP area and a sweeping staircase to the loos.

Nightman
(Vineeri 4; Tel: 626 1847)
Some way south of the old town, Nightman is a cult favourite with Tallinn's clubbers, who descend on this (formerly) gay venue after the other clubs are closed (or slowing down). From 3 or 4am, Nightman starts to fill with happy, relaxed party people who come to enjoy the excellent music and atmosphere. Distinguished by its dark interior and a large podium dancefloor in the centre of the main room, the club is built on two floors but is small enough to stay intimate and friendly. Most of the action happens upstairs but a second bar next to the entrance is good for conversation. There is still a gay scene here, though all nights are mixed.

Restaurants

Controvento
(Vene 12/Katariina käik; Tel: 644 0470)
In a tiny alley bordered on one side by the crumbling wall of a medieval church and crammed with tiny boutiques, this famous Italian restaurant complements its setting. Be warned, however, that you could walk past this celebrated alleyway a hundred times if you didn't know it was there. It would be hard to find a more romantic spot for dinner, inside an ancient building decorated in a rustic, Renaissance style, opposite a wall covered with 14th-century marble tombstones. A heavy wooden door opens into the warm glow of the bar, where staff will direct you upstairs to the restaurant or seat you in the cosy cafe downstairs. Upstairs there are two rooms: a smart, stylish area more suited to formal dinners; and a cosier, wood-beamed room with pretty stencil murals. Controvento is owned by Italians, a rarity in the Tallinn restaurant business, and the kitchen is run by three chefs - from Italy, Peru and Ecuador. The menu is versatile enough for all budgets, from simple pasta dishes to four-course feasts with truffles. Make sure you book in advance.

Olde Hansa
(Vanaturg 1; Tel: 627 9020)
Not so much Estonian as Hanseatic, Olde Hansa harks back to the days when Teutonic merchants ruled the cities of the Baltic with a passion for trade that made Tallinn a great medieval capital. Built in an imposing merchant's house next to Town Hall Square, this enormous restaurant is a fixture of the Tallinn scene and should not be missed. Olde Hansa is built on the vivid imagination of the owners - two medievalists who believe in bringing Estonia's history to life. Sit at one of the rough-hewn tables in the huge, candlelit galleries downstairs or go up for the full medieval experience (which the costumed waiters take as seriously as method actors). The food is hearty, seasoned with sweet garnishes and served with honey beer, the house speciality. Try boar 'marinated in rare spices and cooked over a fire in honour of Waldemar II, the brave king of Denmark'. Choose upstairs to enjoy live medieval music, performed on period instruments.

Egoist
(Vene 33: Tel: 646 4052)
Climb the steps of this quietly glamorous restaurant and you will find yourself treated like an honoured guest at a private chateau - from the butler who answers the doorbell to the antique silverware and linen. Egoist is owned by chef and entrepreneur Dmitri Damianov, a man who is not afraid to decorate his restaurants with oil paintings of himself. With prices to scare away all but the most confident locals, you are likely to be sharing the dining room with jolly businessmen, fortysomething braggadocios and wealthy Russians. Low-key classic jazz and golden oldies keep the atmosphere from getting too stodgy, while eccentric paintings of dwarves allegedly bring good luck to diners.

Cafes

Cafe Anglais
(Raekoja plats 14; Tel: 644 2160)
Unusually for a cafe on Town Hall Square, the Anglais is a joint not shunned by locals, who - along with the more knowing ex-pats - flock to this former ambassador's house for the great atmosphere, soft jazz and splendid view. Tucked behind large windows on the first floor you can spy the famous Town Hall Square without having to battle with the tourists taking pictures and buying souvenirs. In summer the Anglais has a tourist-friendly terrace in the sun but for the rest of the year it lurks upstairs like a well-kept secret, via a downstairs entrance shared with a music school and an art gallery. Serving good coffees and teas, beautifully prepared hot chocolate or wine and cocktails, this versatile meeting place also serves light meals throughout the day. At 8pm a pianist joins the party to lull customers with live jazz and lounge music. We regret only that the Anglais closes so early.

Chocolaterie
(Vene 6; Tel: 641 8061)
Chocolate is treated with almost reli gious reverence in this tiny candlelit cafeteria, which sits alongside an atelier in a hidden courtyard off Vene Street. The house speciality is melted chocolate, piping hot, served with a stick of cinnamon and made in 'classic' and three other flavours: gorgonzola and grappa, rum and raisin, and chilli. Also on offer are home-made chilli-flavoured chocolate and delicious cakes. There is an opium-den feel to Chocolaterie: hushed voices in an intimate, antique-shop sitting room bursting with relics. Music is played low - a welcome departure from most Estonian cafes. This is one of Tallinn's favourite havens - it remains popular with locals (especially women) despite the healthy prices.

Kehrwieder
(Saiakang 1)
One of the city's most characterful cafes, Kehrwieder is tucked away just below street level in an alley between Town Hall Square and the warren of the medieval city. Inside this tiny Aladdin's cave you will find candlelit tables around which are crammed softly spoken regulars playing board games, chatting and whiling away the hours. A favourite of students and younger Tallinites, its customers are drawn by the intimate atmosphere, laidback music and wicked hot drinks - lovingly prepared chocolate and Irish coffees, glög (mulled wine) and great cakes. The tone is set by stone walls and a hodge-podge of tables, sofas and chairs from old houses.